by andrew



(click to view all galleries) some described below

If 7-11 stores ever go out of business, the southernmost countries of continental Asia are in serious trouble. Coined “the Starbucks of the Far East” by yours truly, these things popped up once, sometimes twice, every block..

I don’t think I’ve seen a 7-11 in the States since last century. I cursed the Americanization of the region every time I exploited the 7-11 oasis no matter how far off the path I managed to get… they can be a bit convenient.

So the final joke played on me is that, when all was said and done and I had weeded out the bad photos from the rest, organized and laid them out in the collection you may click on above, the sum total of pictures is exactly 711. Unplanned, yet apropos.

And a special prize goes to anyone who can guess the number of times I was asked one simple question by taxi drivers, hotel maids, waiters, pedestrians, and children… I think I learned 4 different ways to say tall enough in Chinese, Malay, Tamil, and other languages I’m scared to mention. It was a matter of survival. “How tall are you?”…

Here are a few highlights….

The food in Singapore

I had some of the best — and least expensive — Asian foods of my life, with particular kudos to the phenomenal offerings in Little India. But most of the time it was the “hawker” stands, prolific throughout the city, that fed me and most of Singapore’s citizens. Basically street food, these outdoor food courts (often open 24 hours) dish out a good taste of nearly any Asian food of interest, and among a mix of the many lifestyles that make up the population. Excellent Chinese food.

But when fine dining was the goal, the very tasty and very spicy foods of the world-famous Banana Leaf Apolo, twice recommended before the trip, as well as another place not far from it, proved just how complex un-Americanized Indian food really can be. No plates; they just roll out a large banana leaf and serve the food directly on it, and with a nice big bowl (alarmingly big) of raita to soothe your Westernized mouth:

I also had some of the most refreshing beverages of Rose water or Sugar Cane juice… in a land that humid, cooling off with a relaxing drink was as difficult as forking over 50 cents…

The trees in Singapore

I must say, that last thing I was expecting and the first to blow me away were the gorgeous, gigantic, looming trees of all kinds… not just growing throughout the city, but so expertly lined up along streets and sidewalks.

I’d be thrilled to see this stuff every day, every which way you turn. Hopefully the pictures capture a bit of the essence.

Keeping the city and people all clean

Singapore doesn’t mess around. One gentleman I met there was fined $500 on the spot for dropping a cigarette to the sidewalk. Eating or drinking in a subway station can land you a $1000 fine, and they will find you. So disgusted are they by smoking (a nice bonus), every pack, aside from its exorbitant price, is covered with close-up pictures of mouth disease, appropriately placed on the lid so you must touch the nasty pic every time you open the pack.

Chinatowns

The only thing I have to ask about the Chinatowns in Singapore and later in Kuala Lumpur, is… why are they always covered with streams of lanterns and decorations?

(Two Cities: Singapore on the left, KL on the right)

Otherwise, I can say definitively, that these recognized Chinatown areas were no more impressive than our own here in New York, and I dare might say that New York City has the edge in this area. That said, it is more fair to view all of Singapore as one big Chinatown, in which case the competition is clearly over.

(New York’s Chinatown… click here for more)

Sentosa

While out walking on the island-resort of Sentosa, just off the southern tip of Singapore, I stumbled upon the information that I was standing on the southernmost tip of all of continental Asia… further south than even India. Whoa. I immediately got down and bowed to any passerby who would receive my praise.

Actually Sentosa is a nice little place with a handful of different beaches and shallow waters. It certainly ain’t no Palawan, but they do have a beach named Palawan, so you can pretend. Right?

I must say this about Sentosa: though I didn’t take any photos, they have one of the best aquariums I have ever seen. Not so big, but very expertly planned out. Within literally seconds of walking in the door, I was petting live sharks and playing with sting rays (which turn out to be very charming and playful creatures). They had displays that I won’t even try to describe… all I can say is absolutely you must not miss this attraction if you visit Singapore. I was dumb-struck. Very cool indeed. (I was having too much fun to take pictures here).

The Cavenagh Bridge

Oldest bridge in Singapore, its sign says it all. And, those children are actually an impressive sculpture, hanging into the water.

Public Swimming

While I’d never set foot or finger in a public pool of New York City (though I’ve heard rumors that some people actually try), attempting the same in the super-sterile city of Singapore required not a moment’s hesitation. For $1 (less, with the exchange rate), I could swim for hours in one of the two Olympic pools. And look, they’ve got a playground in the pool, too.

Temples, Mosques

Despite being scattered all over the city, I didn’t go nuts taking pictures… just seemed a little disrespectful, or perhaps just plain touristy. But they are everywhere, from grand structures, to little sidewalk-corner displays. I even found one in a back alley. While I might stop to tie a shoelace on the way to work, here some folks stop to light some incense or other flammable objects worthy of the cause. Pretty interesting actually, even if I know nothing about it.

Get on the bus, go to Malaysia

Now this was quite a treat. See the full gallery as to why.

(Singapore-Malaysia border)

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

What a truly fantastic, wonderful city, my favorite of the trip. The monorail stations blast Beethoven symphonies over loudspeakers, the culture is extraordinarily inexpensive, and the people remind me of New Yorkers. I felt completely at home in this town.

(chestnuts roasting on an open street)

The Petronas Twin Towers of KL

All I can say is wow wow wow, wow. Most people who know me are aware of my obsessive fascination with skyscrapers (as partially evidenced here, here and here).

Probably because I myself am a skyscraper.

(…while I’m on this topic, I should direct you to some interesting information about new buildings going on in Singapore, by the new NY World Trade Center architect… click here….)

The Petronas Towers are barely 10 years old, if that. I am quite curious about what KL must have been like prior to their completion, as they are very much the centerpiece of this town, an entire miniature city within and around them. Taller even than our beloved World Trade Center, they have accomplished what the WTC did not, a hopping community that stretches for blocks in all directions. (New York’s WTC neighborhood was pretty much dead after business hours, and on weekends). This is partially because these two towers are more than business… the Malaysian Philharmonic’s conert hall is housed within these towers… and a six-story plaza of shops and restaurants far outweighs the little mall we had at the WTC. And a running track, fountains, outdoor restaurants and nightclubs, among other attractions at their base make these towers quite a bit more than just steel office space.

I ventured up to the skybridge. (big tip: if you go, get there waaay early in the morning). The skybridge waiting lobby has all sorts of gadgets to entertain you while you await your trip upstairs. Among the more interesting was a worldwide building sway emulator:

Sit down, dial in your desired skyscraper from around the world, and the chair will move you along the track, not just the exact distance that the chosen tower sways in the wind, but also with the rhythm that the particular structure creates. Some sway back and forth quickly, others more like a random pendulum. Fun little ride, and I didn’t even need Dramamine.

“Towing” Cars

In an effort to reduce pollution, you won’t find tow trucks in this town. Instead, due to cheap labor, companies of men are hired to push an undesired vehicle to a new place.

Thinking of the Philippines

(the Shangril-La hotel in KL, fueling nostalgia about the one we stayed at in Manila)

Not far away, the Philippines begged for a return tour, which I denied it. Our trip 10 months earlier still ranks above them all.

Moving to Malaysia

Certainly tempting! These brochures are handed out in the hotels of KL, and they illustrate some interesting concepts… Malaysia wants your money! A cost comparison among the big cities of the world finds KL the cheapest, and I believe it. Amazing how far your money goes there, and the Malaysian government is quick to seduce you with more icings… announcing the MM2H Visa — Malaysia My 2nd Home — which allows anyone in the world to apply for a 10-year, renewable visa, to come and go as you wish, stay as long as you want, and invest in real estate, bring in outside automobiles, servants, and families. While Singapore is the #1 expatriate destination in the world, KL recently hit the top 10 for the first time. There are currently over 100,000 active MM2H visas in Malaysia. That’s a lot of expatriates, not even including the “illegal” ones.

Malaysian Wildlife

Even though I caught the bird flu while I was there, it was still worth it. I am blogging right now from my hospital bed, and it’s alright, I still have fond memories of the peacocks and storks.

That was a bit dark, but about halfway through my visit to the world’s largest bird park, I suddenly realized just where in the world I was. I appear to have escaped without harm.

Highlight of this visit: Peacock stand-offs. These birds run around the park, in the paths, no supervision, no cages, and they don’t care if you have to get by. But if you try to interrupt them, you might enjoy a pair of earplugs. Peacocks have one of the strangest and loudest yelps I’ve heard from any animal.

Yeah… I got into some trouble

Police Cantonment Center

I bought some souvenirs in Malaysia that are outlawed in the super-sterile, crime-free environs of Singapore. It’s true, there is zero crime of any nature in Singapore. No pick-pocket thieves, even. With penalties so steep just for a littered cig, you can imagine the culture this creates. It was rather pleasant, relaxing, and without worry, if also a tad boring.

My busload of Asian folk crossing the border with me back into Singapore had to wait an unexpected and embarrassing 45 minutes while the checkpoint police took their sweet time to talk to me about the items I was bringing across. Very strange, considering how cheap and plentiful they were to buy, on the street, in KL. Certainly not illegal in the U.S. either. Fun gifts for my sis and her hubby.

They seized them. If I wanted them back, I had to interview on two additional occasions, including at their downtown government offices, pictured here. I figured, why go through all this and not get the gold in the end? Makes the gifts all the more impressive.

So I went the next day, and the next… sitting with my ticket that says “Arms and Explosives Division”. My gosh. They were always very friendly about it, though.

This culminated in my having to have my own security escort at the airport for the entire time I was there. And I had to get to the airport at 3am. But I got the gifts back. Amazing they managed to efficiently transport the seized goods from the Malaysian border, to the downtown Cantonment Center, and then to the airport, all behind my back, and within 48 hours, and actually have them waiting there for me. No doubt the labor costs involved with this process were at least 10 times what I paid for the items.

What’s particularly funny is that, coming into Singapore where all this started, a gentleman in front of me also had some goods seized. Guess what they were? Two small packages of mixed candies… among them, chewing gum, which is illegal in Singapore (due to the temptation to litter it, I imagine).

It is worth noting that Malaysian newspapers are also illegal in Singapore.

24″ Oil painting from Singapore’s Chinatown

A worthy item I had to splurge for… and by splurge, I mean dig for a sum less than my usual NY lunch…

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7 responses from visitors...

  1. Laura says:

    Andrew. I was wondering if you were back yet. looks like you had a great time. I love that part of the world and can’t wait to visit again. By the way, I was in KL before the towers were complete. In the currency crisis of 1997-98 work was stopped on them. One of the goals was to build something higher than the WTC. I saw the building site of this incredible skyscraper with tin shanties below where people were living.

  2. Karen Belanger says:

    Andrew – I will visit the site again, am limited on time now (heading for Marshall to see your Mom in a few minutes), but these are great!!!! I laughed out loud.you love skyscrapers because you’re one?! That’s not what made this great – but you are one fine photographer and story teller.thanks for sharing. Love, karen

  3. Heidi says:

    I can just imagine you sitting there with your ticket labelled “Arms and Explosives Division”, ready to explain. Your storytelling is hilarious, and I can’t believe you experienced all those amazing places by your self. I wish I had been able to go with you. The photos are incredible.truly amazing how CLEAN it looks there! My favorite photo. though? The inside of the towers, showing “the city”. Speechless.

  4. Tom says:

    This is really an impressive synopsis of your trip. The written information is also very well done and very interesting to read.

  5. Chris says:

    The way you observe the world seems very rich and insightful as declared by each of the images you share with us from your daily travels in life. It inspires people to see the world in ways they normally don’t or haven’t seen before. Exotic locations aside, you can transform the banal into bananas!

    Hmmmm..let’s find a place for you in this world…FILM PERHAPS??!!!

  6. Cazzy says:

    Oh how I miss that place.

  7. Zalvin says:

    Hi pal, maybe u will not remember me..that fat guy that we share dinner with you in Singapore Korean BBQ (i used to live in Mikaukee, WI) but anyway i really want to say is that i appreciate that u do remember the days and times in Singapore but it kinda short anyway. Many thanks for the music and it is really nice and photos turn out very good so hopefully you might come over again and i be looking forward for it. Do take extra care and God bless, Cheers and say hi to your family and friends out there for me.

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